Written on October 4, 2010 at 11:20 pm by Power Tool Team

Steel Step

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Steel Step
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Welding Carbon Steel Pipe To Stainless Steel Pipe

The standard welding processes such as TIG, MIG, and stick can be used to weld carbon steel pipe to stainless steel pipe. Standard carbon E-class welding electrodes such as E70 and 7018 can be used for MIG and stick welding respectively. However, using such welding electrodes on this type of welding, the welding quality may be compromised due to lack of chromium and nickel in the alloy. Hence, it is important to use high-carbon stainless steel electrodes to have a strong weld joint between the steel and stainless pipes. In particular, type 309 welding electrodes have the correct composition ensuring a proper weld with correct penetration and structural integrity. Similarly, the following steps must be used in this type of welding:

Step-1: Load or spool the MIG welding machine with the type 309 welding wire after removing already loaded welding wire used for other jobs.

Step-2: Replace the gas with the three part shielding gas mixture. It is necessary to mix the gas thoroughly before attaching the gas bottle to the MIG welder. The method used is to place the gas bottle on the floor horizontally roll it back and forth to mix the gas thoroughly. After that fix gas gauges to the three-part gas bottle.

Step-2: Now switch on the MIG welder and adjust the correct heat and wire speed levels. It is essential to note that the standard heat settings (used for carbon steel) will not be adequate for welding stainless steel as higher amount of heat is required to weld stainless steel. Best advise is to refer your welding guide to verify the initial test setting for your heat and wire speed. Once you adjust the heat levels, carry out a test pass with the welder to see that the settings are correct.

Step-3: Cut a piece of stainless steel pipe and a piece of carbon steel pipe with required lengths using a band saw. It is important to note that when cutting stainless steel using a band saw, reduce the speed and at the same time use cutting fluid to keep the band saw blade cool.

Step-4: You need to have 20-degree bevel on end of the cut pieces of pipe. This is done using a grinder by holding it at a constant 20 degrees to give you an even fill line. Make sure not to touch the grinding pipes because the pipe will get very hot during grinding.

Step-5: Once the pipe edges are grounded correctly, place one beveled end of the steel pipe against the beveled end of the stainless steel pipe allowing a welding gap about 1/16th of an inch between the two pieces of pipe. Then place a tack at the weld joint to keep the pipes together. Similarly, roll the pipes and provide a tack at one inch interval around the entire circumference of the pipe. ItÕs necessary to maintain the 1/16th inch weld gap right through out the circumference.

Step-6: Now start welding the pipes together. Start the weld from the stainless steel pipe and gradually pull the puddle onto the carbon steel pipe. Also, roll the MIG gun in a circle to flow the puddle to create good weld while watching the bottom of the weld to make sure proper penetration. During the welding process, if you note that the carbon pipe is under-cutting, it is necessary to reduce the heat on the MIG welder and repeat it.

About the Author

Amweld is a supplier of TIG & MIG Welding Equipment in Australia. Amweld welding machines can be used for welding steel.

how can i tell the difference between a real and a fake steel penny?

my step-grandfather has jars full of what look like steel pennies. they all have 1943 dates but im not quite sure if they're real or not.

wikipedia:
In 1943, at the peak of World War II, cents of zinc-coated steel were made for a short time due to war demands for copper. A few copper cents from 1943 were produced from the 1942 planchets remaining in the bins. Similarly, some 1944 steel cents have been confirmed. From 1944 through 1946, salvaged ammunition shells made their way into the minting process, and it was not uncommon to see coins featuring streaks of brass or having a considerably darker finish than other issues.

reference1:
The 1943 silver colored penny is a wartime issue made of steel, and coated with zinc. During World War II, copper was so badly needed for the war effort (to make shell casings) that the U.S. penny was made out of steel that year, which is why most 1943 pennies are silver colored. They are worth about 12 to 15 cents each in ciruclated condition, and as much as 50 cents or more if Uncirculated.

reference 2 is "1943 Copper Penny - Is Yours Genuine or Fake"

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