Written on February 16, 2011 at 1:42 pm by Power Tool Team

Drywall Cut Out

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Drywall Cut Out
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How to do Sheetrock Drywall

In this do it yourself renovation post, we will cover in detail how to install sheetrock drywall.

Installing drywall is a very simple process that just about anyone can do, but mudding drywall (or crack-filling as it is usually called) takes much more skill. If you are interested in learning about Crack filling or mudding Sheetrock Drywall, see the post "How to tape and mud Sheetrock Drywall".

Firstly, we will go over how to install the drywall. The tools you will need for this job are as follows:

utility knife
measuring tape
large straight edge (or drywall square)
drill (preferable drywall gun/drill)

Calculating the amount of Sheetrock drywall needed

The first thing to think about when starting a job like this is to order the right amount of drywall and drywall screws for the job. To figure out how to find out how many sheets you will need, you have to do a bit of math.

For example: if your room has walls that measure 10 ft + 14 ft + 10 ft + 14 ft, totaling 48 ft of wall space area, and your walls are usually 8 ft in height. Multiply the 48 ft by the 8ft wall, for a total of 384 squared ft. Common sheets of drywall are 4 ft x 8ft, therefore each sheet equals 32 square ft.

All you have to do to figure out how many sheets it takes for this room, is to divide the 384 square ft by 32 square ft, giving you a total of 12 sheets of drywall needed. Most rooms have a window, door and closet, therefore you should have one sheet of scrap left over after the job is complete.

Basic Tips for Working with Drywall

Before you begin to work with the drywall, there are few things you need to remember before one single piece gets hung. Firstly, when measuring drywall to be cut, it must be measured and cut to the center of a securing point; such as a joist or wall stud.

To secure the sheetrock to the wall stud or joist, use proper drywall screws for this application. The length of the screws is dependant on the thickness of the sheetrock, and the material it is securing to. See the pic below for a better understanding.

Also, when cutting the drywall, make your mark with a pencil on the drywall using a straight edge. With the utility knife, score the drywall on the "finish side" first, and then bend the drywall back along the scored line. Once the drywall is bent back and the gypsum is cracked, cut the back side paper of the drywall with the utility knife, cutting the piece off the rest of the sheet.

Installing Drywall on the ceiling

Installing drywall in a room will start with the ceiling, completing the whole ceiling before starting the walls. If you are an inexperienced drywaller, you should have someone help you with holding the sheet up in place while you screw the drywall onto the wood strapping or joist.

Professionals use Drywall Jacks to hold the sheets of drywall up to the ceiling, while they secure the drywall in place. You can build a couple of these holding devices for yourself out of a couple of 2 x 4 spruce boards.

Before installing the drywall on the ceiling, put a mark on the top wall plate where each piece of strapping or floor joist is located, so you will know where to position each screw when securing it to the ceiling. See the illustration for a better understanding.

When you get a couple of screws in the drywall, I recommend using a long enough straight edge to make a line with a pencil from the mark on the top wall plate to the visible joist on the opposite side. This will give you a straight guide to follow when screwing the drywall to the floor joists.

If you have obstacles in the way while hanging the drywall, you must measure from the edge of the ceiling to the obstacle, transferring each mark over to the drywall. Once all the measurements have been made, you can go ahead and cut the area out with a drywall saw.

The drywall can be fulling secured to the joists or strapping by placing drywall screws every 4 to 6 inches apart. This is especially important when hanging the drywall on the ceiling, to prevent sag over time. As stated earlier, each drywall screw should be sunk in the drywall, just under the surface of the outside paper. This indent will later be filled during the crack-filling stage.

Installing Drywall on the walls

When hanging drywall on the walls of the room, the golden rule is to start with the top section of drywall first. Doing this provides the drywall on the ceiling extra support around the edges, where screws are hard to place. You may need an extra person to help lift each sheet in place, while you get the first few screws into the drywall. See the pic below for an illustration.

When hanging the drywall on the walls, each piece of drywall should butt up tight together, without any major gaps. Also, the same principle for spacing and depth of the screws still applies; every 4 - 6 inches apart and just below the surface of the paper.

After all the sheets are hung on the walls, you will probably notice that the drywall is about a 1/4" to 1/2" off the floor. This is normally installed in this fashion, to keep the drywall off the floor in case there is ever a small flood in the area. At this point, the drywall installation is complete.

Happy Renovations!.

About the Author

I started working as an entrepreneur at age 13. After school and during the summer, I was building sheds, roofing, installing windows, doors and siding. Being a Certified Plumber and with 20 years of experience in the DIY renovation market, I thought I would share my experiences with the everyday home owners over the internet. I hope all those who read my articles enjoy them and come back for more. Happy renovating!

My plaster ceiling is sagging in center of room. Can I cut out the 5X2 (ft) section and replace with drywall?

The rest of the plaster ceiling feels secured to the lathe nicely. I was thinking of carefully cutting out the 10 sq. ft. section of sagging plaster, then replace a 10 sq. ft. section of drywall. Mud the seems, then match the texture. Might be a dumb idea, but I don't want to spend $500 to re-drywall the whole ceiling, unless I have too. Please offer advice and suggestions on this procedure.
There are no water leaks. The plaster section is just detaching from the lathe. Thanks.

Don't take down the ceiling. They make special plaster anchors to reattach it to the lath. They are screws with large plastic buttons at the head. You screw them through the plaster back into the lath. and patch over the buttons.
If you do not see water staining you probably do not have a leak. Over time the keys break away from the lath and the plaster comes loose. This is very common in older plaster.
Besides this looking much better it is a lot easier than a drywall patch.

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